By ERIC ASIMOV JAN. 5, 2018 Brown ales are relaxed and easygoing, pure and pleasing, with flavors that are subtle rather than flamboyant. CreditTony Cenicola/The New York Times It turns out that in beer-drinking circles I would be considered unfashionable. Not because I insist on wearing cargo shorts or dad jeans. With the exception of Garrett Oliver, the...
